While exiting the main train station, travelers might easily miss a small bridge leading to one of the most fascinating areas of the city. As soon as they cross the bridge, enter a narrow and dark corridor and emerge on the other side they will find themselves in the Jewish Ghetto of Venice, the Cannaregio area in which the Jews were forced to live for centuries.

Instituted in 1516 by a joint decree of the Doge and the Venetian Senate, this area is still the very heart of Jewish cultural life in Venice. The word ghetto probably derives from geto, or foundry in Venetian dialect, because the Jewish quarter was established where there had been several foundries.

As travelers make their way through the tourist devoid, small squares and charming streets of the Ghetto their attention will be drawn to several peculiar synagogues. Because the Jews of Venice spoke different languages according to their geographic origins, you would have heard conversations in Venetian, Italian, Judeo-Spanish, French, and German. This is why separate synagogues existed for the German, Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese communities.

This area, unlike most of Venice, has retained its community and population. Kids still play in the small squares, the Campielli and bakeries and stores still cater to one of the most fascinating Jewish communities in Europe.

In the past the Jews of Venice could only work in certain fields: the medical profession, in the strazzeria (buying and selling second hand goods) and, most importantly, in money lending, traditionally prohibited to the Christians for religious reasons. Shakespeare’s famous comedy The Merchant of Venice has as its protagonist a Venetian Jew who is a money lender.

Life in the Ghetto was not easy, and subjected to many restrictions.  It was connected to the rest of the Venice only by two gated and surveilled bridges. The gates were opened in the early morning at the ringing of the famous Marangona, the great bell of the belfry of St. Mark's Basilica, and shut and locked early in the evening. Despite these restrictions, the cultural life of the Ghetto of Venice was lively and relatively free from the strict surveillance of the Roman Inquisition. After the death of Pope Pius V in 1572, the government of the Venetian Republic had a series of confrontations with the Papacy, leading to an extraordinary independence of the Venetian Inquisition from Rome and more lenient policies towards Jews. Thus, the ghetto of Venice became an important center of dissemination of Jewish culture. Many Venetians and travelers would flock to the ghetto during the day in search of rare or otherwise unobtainable books of magic, Biblical mysticism, astrology, astronomy and alchemy.  

The end of the segregation of the Ghetto of Venice came abruptly. In 1797 the French Army of Italy, commanded by Napoleon Bonaparte, invaded the territory if the Republic, overwhelmed with ease its weak defenses and, after taking control, declared the Venetian Republic dissolved on May 12, 1797. One of the first order of Bonaparte was to immediately end the Ghetto's separation from the city, and to grant the Jews of Venice equal rights in the newly formed Republic under French control.  

Today, the Ghetto is still the very heart of Jewish life in Venice. The small Jewish community of Venice (about 500 people) is culturally very active.  Every year, there is a well-attended international conference of Jewish and Hebrew Studies. Still the center of Jewish communal life, the synagogues are places of worship that also provide lessons on the sacred texts and Talmud for both children and adults, along with courses in Modern Hebrew. While exploring the Ghetto travelers can savor pastries and sweets in the local bakeries, stop for a meal at one of the excellent and kosher restaurants (such as the Hostaria del Ghetto or Gam Gam) and visit Judaica shops that sell clothing, souvenirs and jewelry.

Not to be overlooked are the memorials to the Holocaust, scattered throughout the neighborhood.

Although not as famous other Venetian landmarks, the Ghetto of Venice is one of the most distinct and important areas of the city, as well as an enduring testimony of its unique and fascinating ancient and modern history. Learn about it and other lesser traveled corners of Venice on your journey with Palladio Tours.

- Ruggero Taradel